The statement that there are many fillers today is quite accurate. As with everything in modeling, there is no one answer as to which to use. It partly depends on what it is you want to fill. Is it a small nick or sinkhole in the model, is it a large seam, or did you do a conversion and need to fill a large area? The answer to this question partly determines what you should use. Also it also boils down to a matter of personal preference. The best way to answer is to tell what is available, give some of the characteristics of each, and some recommendations as to the situations that they work best in. There are those products that are intended as model fillers, those that are fillers for other things, and others. Let's take a look at each type. Here is a partial listing of some of the available putties and other fillers. Lets look at each kind, and some of their characteristics.

(ATTENTION !! If you are Under 16 years ask to an adult to help you because some tools are very dangerous !!)

One of the best products to come around in a long time for the modeler is a product called Mr. Surfacer made by Gunze Sangyo. I would recomend the Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer primer, that's available in both spray can and bottle (it's very expensive and hard to find, but it's worth it). "What is Mr. Surfacer?" you may ask. Well, I guess the best way to describe it is that it is a thin filler, almost the consistency of paint. It is the best filler for small gaps, seams, scratches and the like. It can be applied with a paint brush, toothpick, or whatever you like. It dries fairly fast.

Modeller putty: this the classic putty for plastic. It melts a little the part and hardens fast, good for medium-small sink holes. It's not so sturdy so you can't use it reconstruct parts. It retains a little and when sanded sometimes it leaves micro holes that must be puttyed again. Remember to close quickly the cap to not have it harden all. The best I tryed are from ITALERI and GunzeSangyo. To apply it you can use a toothpick for little works or an artistic palette (those used for mixing and applying oil colors). If you work most of the time on plastic models it's a must to have.

Milliput :this is a two parts putty that you mix togheter and you can work for about one hour before it starts hardening. The complete harden comes after some hours. There are four kinds of Milliput that consists in the grain of the putty. It's good for making parts as you can work hardened or not. I prefer to make a piece near to the final one I need end when hard I work on it with cutter or chisels. You can work also fresh using a little water not have it stick to your hands. It's not so good for filling large parts beacuse it's not so good when hardened to stick in place. With an Hair dryer you could fasten hardening process. You can also make thin foils to use as canvas to make parts of figures dressing. It's a very good material, but you have to try and learn how to use well. It's sell in four types.

2-part epoxy putty from Tamiya:this are two good type of putty that are preferred for reconstruction or scrath of parts, they have a good adhesiveness and they can be cutted and sanded on finished work. It's now almost easy to find in Italy. The diference between the two packages is the hardening time.

Poliester putty for naval purposes: this is a putty that i had from roberto and it's a low cost EP, it's lightweight and it melts a little plastic so you have a perfect seam line. It's easy to cut and to sand, and snading it you can obtain a very fine surface. You can see a strange effect modelling it while it's hardening on the ground of the Led Mirage basement of marco. It stinks a lot and it's dangerous (as all epoxy putty) for inhalation and ingestion. Use it in a well ventilated place and leave it harden out room. Pay attention that a big amount of putty creates a lot of heat when it hardens for a chemical reaction.

Poliester putty Mori-Mori: This is the putty you always see on Hobby Japan paper, the Yellow one that is used for so many works. it's like the one seen before but only more expensive and hard to find. You can buy it at HLJ or RainbowTen.

Duro putty (Kneadatite):This is a putty that came out some year ago and used by the great Bill Horan to make his figures. It's a strange putty and the best for figure makers or for Vinyl model (it's very sticky). You take the same amount of Yellow and Blue and mix them to obtain an homogenous green putty, it's good to work it with some water and also wet the tools for a better and fine work. It never becomes very hard and it's why I didn't use it too much. I used it the first time for my Guyver model to reconstruct the leg and arm joints. Sanding it isn't so easy so you may obtain a bad surface (good for some kind of works, I think). Now you can buy it easly on GamesWorkshop Shops or at very good modelers shops.

Das: It isn't a very putty but it's goor form making the land on the dioramas or replicas big stones. It's good to work with water and you may leave to harden almost one or two days. It takes paint very well.